A good map is a great help to visitors to Orkney. VisitOrkney produces a useful one, which also includes Shetland.

The Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 series covers Orkney in three sheets, and is recommended for all serious explorers.

Yesnaby and Skaill

Further south along the west coast of the Mainland lies the Bay of Skaill, with its famous Neolithic village of Skara Brae.  A stroll here is much recommended at any season, whether benign on a summer’s day or wild in a winter storm.

Skaill House is situated near Skara Brae on the west coast of the Mainland.  It is one of a small number of mansion houses in Orkney which are open to the public as museums, and dates partly from the 17th century, when part of the Earldom estate passed to the Bishopric under Bishop Graham in 1615.  The oldest part of the house was built by Bishop Graham in the 1620’s and much of the house dates from the 18th century, with further additions over the next two centuries.

The tour is a good insight to the lives of the Lairds and their families, with connections to many historic events and characters.  These include some of Captain Cook’s dinner service, a cupboard called the Armada Chest, with panels said to have come from a Spanish ship in 1588 and one of Bishop Graham’s beds.

The house allegedly is haunted, and during renovation work 15 skeletons were found near the east porch, which are thought to be early Christian.

There is a gift shop and the property is open from April to September.  A visit makes an interesting contrast to Skara Brae.

Other mansion houses which may be visited include Balfour Castle on Shapinsay, Carrick House on Eday and Melsetter House on Hoy, all by arrangement..

The Head O’Row is on the south side of the bay and has superb views to north and south as well as a blow hole, the Hole O’Row, through which waves explode on a rough day.  There is superb clifftop walk from Skaill to Yesnaby, with its the wild cliff scenery.  During a storm huge waves crash into and over the cliffs.  The Castle of Yesnaby is a mini version of the Old Man of Hoy, which can be seen from here.

Stromatolites, fossils which date from about 350 million years ago, may be seen here.  Yesnaby is also one of the best places to see the rare Primula scotica, which flowers in May and July and can be spotted from the approach road.  This hardy little plant only grows in Orkney and the north coast of Scotland. It has small magenta flowers.

In summer Spring Squill, Thrift, Grass of Parnassus and Sea Plantain give the maritime heath a warm glow.  Yesnaby has many characters depending on the season, time of day and weather.