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Kirkwall
 Kirkwall (ON Kirkjuvagr - Church Bay), as the main town
in Orkney, makes a good starting point for a visit to the
islands. It is first mentioned in the sagas as the dwelling
place of Earl Rognvald Brusison about 1035, who built a church
dedicated to King Olav of Norway there. The town developed
around the Cathedral, and became the administrative and commercial
centre, with its access to the North Isles, central position
and sheltered harbour in the then much bigger Peedie Sea.
Today the winding main Street still follows the shape of
the original settlement, and many of the fine old houses
with end-on gables date from the 16th to 18th centuries.
Narrow lanes run off the Street which has many attractive
shops. At Broad Street it opens into the expanse of the grass-covered
Kirk Green in front of St Magnus Cathedral.
The attractive harbour front is the scene of much activity
with ferries and fishing boats. Over the last 200 years the
pier has greatly expanded, but the Harbour Basin still retains
much of its charm.
The Orkney Museum is housed in Tankerness House, parts of
which date from the 15th century. This museum is a good starting
point from which to gain an insight into Orkney’s rich
past. The Tankerness House Gardens behind the museum make
a pleasant place for a seat on a nice day. St Magnus Cathedral
is across the road, and makes an excellent finale to a visit,
with its peaceful interior.
 The nearby Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces date
from Norse and Scottish times. The former was first built
at the same time as the Cathedral, and was where King Haakon
Haakonson died in 1263 after the “Battle” of
Largs. The “Moosie Tower” was built during the
16th century.
The Earl’s Palace was built by the notorious Earl
Patrick Stewart in the early 17th century, but was only briefly
occupied and was roofless by 1750. Patrick was executed for
treason in 1615 and so had little time to enjoy his palace.
A very good vantage point from which to gain an overall
impression of Orkney is from the top of Wideford Hill, just
to the west of Kirkwall on the Old Finstown Road. It can
be reached by footpath and by road. From the summit most
of the North and South Isles, East and West Mainland and
Scapa Flow can be seen.
 Kirkwall is an excellent place to seek out interesting souvenirs
or presents, with its wide variety of quality shops stocking
knitwear, Orkney jewellery and crafts, local books, as well
as many other home-produced items. In addition there is a
good selection of Orkney food and drink products such as
Highland Park Whisky, Orkney Herring, Orkney Cheese, smoked
fish of various kinds and of course the famous Orkney Beef.
The Highland Park Visitor Centre on the edge of the town
offers visits to the distillery and an excellent audiovisual
introduction to Orkney and the making of Highland Park, as
well as an enchanting shop which stocks many interesting
items.
The ancient St Magnus Cathedral remains a symbol of the
600-year Norse sway over Orkney, and of the power and wealth
of the Norse Earldom. For over 870 years it has dominated
Kirkwall |
