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The Brough of Birsay
The Brough of Birsay is a tidal island off the northwest
corner of the Mainland. There are remains of a large Viking
settlement, which is underlain by Pictish buildings. Bronze
casting was important in Pictish times and a large symbol
stone was also found. Settlement seems to have started about
the 6th century AD.
Most of the ruins visible today are Viking, the small church
is 12th century, but there may be an earlier Celtic one below
it. On the slopes above the church are the outlines of several
Norse longhouses up to 20m long, together with outhouses,
which can be clearly seen from the air.
Near the church lies an extensive area of buildings - complete
with bath-house and under floor central heating. It is thought
that Earl Thorfinn the Mighty’s 11th century cathedral
and palace were in the village, which is called “The
Palace”.
On the Point of Buckquoy a number of figure-of-eight shaped
Pictish houses of similar age to the one at Gurness have
been excavated, but none are on display. However “Groatie
Buckies” (Cowrie Shells) may be found on the beach
here in compensation.
Apart from the ancient monuments, the Brough has a lighthouse
dating from 1925, and the whole area is a very pleasant place
for a walk or to watch the sea from the shelter of the car.
It is also possible to see Puffins here during the breeding
season.
The Earl’s Palace at “The Palace” village
was built by Earl Robert Stewart in the late 16th century
and consists of four wings surrounding a large courtyard
which has a well in the middle. It was said to be “a
sumptuous and stately mansion” in 1633. Stewart was
a half-brother of Mary Queen of Scots.
The large exposed bay to the east of the Brough is called
Skipi Geo. There is a fine walk from the car park to the
Whale Bone, from where there are spectacular views on rough
days. In summer the whole area is awash with wild flowers,
including Thrift, spring Squill, Grass of Parnassus and Sea
Plantain.
Barony Water Mill, one of the last working
examples of a 19th century mill, is open to the public and
is in working order. Beremeal can still be made here, being
ground from the old-fashioned four-row barley which is still
grown in Orkney and which was formerly used to make ale and,
later, whisky.
Marwick Head (87m) lies to the south of the village, and
is an RSPB Reserve. In early summer it teems with breeding
seabirds and is a very good place to view Guillemots, Razorbills,
Fulmars, Kittiwakes, Rock Doves, Puffins, and even perhaps
a Peregrine. The clifftops are carpeted by a profusion of
Thrift and other wild flowers and yellow lichens in summer,
which adds to the wild beauty of the cliffs.
The Old Red Sandstone rock has level beds and weathers into
a myriad of small ledges which are ideal for nesting seabirds.
There are also plentiful food supplies in the neighbouring
waters.
There are several other RSPB Reserves in the West Mainland.
These include the Loons, near Marwick Head, the Birsay Moors
and Hobbister in Orphir. Other good places for birds are
the Loch of Harray, Burgar Hill in Evie and the harbours
of Kirkwall and Stromness.
The tower at the highest point of Marwick
Head was erected after WW1 to commemorate the Minister of
War, Kitchener, and the crew of HMS Hampshire, which was
sunk here in 1916, probably by a mine. The cruiser was taking
Kitchener to Russia when the sinking happened. There were
very few survivors.
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